What They Do Best

Tea at the Landmark

There are at least three things, for certain, that are truly British: high tea in the afternoon, “opposite” cars, and Sherlock Holmes. None can do high tea more fashionably than London's starred hotels, the navigability of England's roads are infamous, and the Sherlock Holmes Museum on Baker Street dominates the detective's market all on its own. 

It was a leisurely Sunday afternoon in November, one I remember quite vividly anyway because the morning of that same day began with a double migraine, one right after the other. My recoveries from both were swift, however, and that afternoon was basically free of any lingering nauseating head pain. But, playing it safe, we decided a day infused with simplicity would be best in my fragile state.

Spaghetti Junction in Brimingham

For the first time since I'd been in London I got to ride in the front seat of a car, and one that wasn't just a taxi. Sitting in what ought to have been the driver's seat was mildly surreal. I felt as if I ought to be driving, but without the steering wheel in my lap that would've been impossibly difficult. Instead I fiddled with a radio that refused to cooperate the way any normal, American car's radio would work. In fact, it was so utterly confounding I couldn't even got close to unlocking its potential and inner musical abilities. So I went back to eying the road, from time to time, in moments of bravery. 

The Magic Roundabout, for occasions when you want to take your life in your hands

From any vantage point, whether it be in the front seat of a BMW, the upper level bench of a double-decker, or the back room of one of the infamous black cabs, watching the traffic is wildly frightening. There's no rhyme nor reason to its madness. Its merely a chaotic jumble of vehicles in a god-forsaken, mad man's race against space and time. 

A mechanical jungle of angry beasts fighting for space at the front of some interlocking, never-ending, twisted line that doesn't actually exist. And it's all backwards! Everything is the opposite of the way it ought to be. In fact, now that I think about it, it sounds very Alice in Wonderland-esque, and I suspect Lewis Carroll may very well have been influenced more by the irrationality of the roads than by drug use.

The Magic Roundabout. Kills everyone in its path.

We abandoned the car in Marylebone and continued on our way as pedestrians. With no destination in mind, we were completely at our leisure and free to wander aimlessly. Yet in our aimlessness we succeeded and, indeed, ended up somewhere; 221b Baker Street, the home of Sherlock Holmes and Doctor Watson. Neither gentleman was at home, but that was to be expected. However, for a few pounds they strangers wander through their Victorian flat for the sake of posterity and in the name of cultural heritage. Surprisingly enough, the house is open every day of the year except Christmas Day, and is constantly guarded by one of Scotland Yard's finest.

The famous study overlooking Baker Street that has been portrayed in so many films over the years is located on the 1st floor...

...and his bedroom is adjoined to it at the rear of the flat. Doctor Watson’s bedroom on the 2nd floor overlooks a small yard at the rear of the house, while Mrs Hudson’s room is at the front. Mrs Hudson was the landlady of the lodging house who prepared meals and undertook household duties for her two famous tenants. 

The third floor exhibit rooms contain a slightly shocking arrangement of wax models of scenes from the stories. 

 

Since the 1930s, the Royal Mail had been delivering mail addressed to Sherlock Holmes to the Abbey National Bank, and they had employed a special secretary to deal with such correspondence. The museum went through several appeals for such mail to be delivered to it, on the grounds that it was the most appropriate organization to respond to the mail, rather than the bank. Although these initiatives were all unsuccessful, the issue was finally resolved in 2002 when the Abbey National vacated its headquarters after seventy years, and the mail is currently delivered to the museum. 

 

They now keep the letters people send in a scrapbook. This one was my favorite.

Dame Jean Conan Doyle made clear her lack of enthusiasm for the museum when she was asked about it. She was very much against the idea of suggesting that her father's creation was a real person and knew that the presence of the museum would reinforce the idea in the minds of many that Holmes had really existed. This idea was strengthened further by the presence of a commemorative blue plaque on the outside that states the years of Holmes's supposed residency. The plaque is similar in design to those erected by English Heritage but it is not one of theirs, as they only erect plaques to people who have legitimately existed. The Museum did offer Dame Jean the opportunity to create a room in the museum dedicated to her father, but this offer was refused, and since then the last remaining possessions of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle have been sold off at auction.

At the end of Baker Street, to the North, is Regent's Park. I'd visited before on my last visit to London two years ago but it is always worth it to stroll through again. Especially if you need to work up an appetite for afternoon tea. Again, without planning on it, our meandering walk from Regent's Park placed us outside The Landmark Hotel. Desperately in need of nourishment after a whole day of migraine-induced nausea and not-eating, I agreed to a mutual “first experience”. As neither of us had ever experienced high tea time at one of London's finest establishments it practically went without saying that it was time to try it out.

Winter Garden Atrium

Situated at the heart of the soaring eight-story glass roof atrium, the Winter Garden restaurant proudly offers a memorable dining experience. And their award winning Afternoon Tea is the perfect way to enjoy a late afternoon. 

The Chocolate selection

Prepare to indulge in an assortment of sandwiches, freshly baked scones and French pastries as well as a selection of freshly brewed leaf and herbal tea. You can even treat yourself to a selection of mouth watering chocolate delights with their Chocolate Afternoon Tea selection. Allow several hours to fully enjoy the experience and plan on not eating for a day in advance or an entire day following. The food may dainty and artfully crafted but it is, nonetheless, a LOT of food. A lot of delicious food, I might add, though.

The Landmark at night