Wednesday, November 2, 2011

London's Secret Bars

London takes on an additional layer of curiosity when you're introduced to its secret places, ones hidden from the public eye. Literally. Underneath London, as well as above it, are bars and clubs intentionally disguised to keep people out. Hidden in dark back alleys and behind unmarked doors, these undetectable dens are true gems to local Londoners who want to escape from street level pubs and crowded bars overrun by tourists.

Although the internet has afforded access to some of the undercover places in London, a Google search is only as good as the key words you type in the text box. Meaning, if you don't know what to look for it's less likely you'll stumble upon a hideaway by random chance. You would be better off to rely on the goodwill of local friends.

As for me, I made a new friend who does, in fact, live in the city and he has already introduced me to a few new places, including two quaint, private bars that you would never notice if you passed them on the street.

 




The first of these two was in a genuinely unexpected London region; Chinatown. As the name suggests, Chinatown is a primarily Chinese market, though plenty of tourists and locals frequent the trio of pedestrianized streets. After dinner at The Golden Dragon, a legitimately Chinese sit-down restaurant with whole, cooked animals hanging in the front window, we decided a quite bar with an exponentially more relaxed atmosphere was in order and should be next on our to-do list. My friend, himself, had been made aware of one of the hidden bars which, surprisingly, was just across the street, and he was good enough to introduce me to it.

When you're standing on street level all you notice are the expected Chinatown shops and stalls and the line of oriental restaurants. Especially at night when you're being bustled about by hungry Soho visitors it hard to look around much or take in your surroundings. So unless you are made specifically aware of what sits overhead in unmarked windows you'd never realize the whole world of activity above you. Unless I am told otherwise I normally assume such lofts are all livable flats. Apparently that's not always the case, because looking down on Chinatown is The Experimental Cocktail Club, or ECC. Their website is a single, undetailed page, showing only an image of their mysterious front door (which in person looks uninviting, to be sure). See their front door here:

If you can navigate your way through Chinatown, find that unmarked and unnumbered door, you must then get past the pretentious doormen. They are quick to judge, so I hear, though when I went we were allowed to pass through unquestioned. But according to reviews it's rarely that easy. They typically act as if there is nothing beyond the guarded door and talk to those who approach as if they don't belong, and effectively turn people away. So if you plan on getting beyond the guard act like you belong and be purposeful when you approach.







If you manage to gain entry the mysterious black door will open and before you will lie a flight of dark, carpeted stairs. The long hallway leads to a bend at the top so you effectively cannot see anything beyond. Thankfully, that dim, naked hall is all that is left to stand between you and the exclusive Experimental Cocktail Club.

When you enter after passing through the ugly door and up the dingy staircase you will be surprised to suddenly find yourself in beautiful, sparkling surroundings. The giant mirrors on the walls reflect the candle lights and splash a golden glow back onto the room. Exposed brickwork and paneled wood lend an extra touch of class to the two-story bar, which has tall ceilings but narrow spaces. Its size limits the number of guests able to experience the ECC at a time, which adds to the intimate nature of the bar. It is very much young and beautiful couples but the pretentiousness of the place doesn't affect the customer service. Once you're inside the bartenders do a fantastic job of waiting on guests. They're friendly and knowledgeable and are always willing to mix up something special or make recommendations. However, it would be easy to spend upwards of £100 on drinks between two or three people as they typically cost between £11-15.


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The second of the two secret bars we visited, this one on a different day, mind you, was farther north, near Baker Street (Sherlock Holmes, anyone?) in Marylebone. The Purl is even smaller that the ECC and instead it is underground. It reminded me of a pirate den, almost, with private nooks and crannies to sit in. seating is incredibly limited and you need a reservation. The doorman will only let you pass if you're on the guest list. However, my friend decided to take me there on a whim without a reservation...but he talked his way in and we were seated just at the bottom of the stairs at the bar.
From my view seated at the bar.

The Purl was developed by an apothecary/chemist who had a nack for mixing things. This legacy remains and most of the drinks are served in a highly theatrical manner, often smoking and presented in ancient test tube bottles. The bartenders call themselves mixologists for this very reason and pride themselves on their ability to create. “By experimenting with foams, fog, homemade caviar and liquid nitrogen, [they] aim to rediscover lost classic cocktails and re-invent the rule book.”



Sitting at the bar is a must. Not only can you see these concoctions as they're being prepared, if you're talkative you'll get the benefit of conversation and know-how from the busy mixologists. Though they're rushing around they're more than willing to chat. The two we met were from Amsterdam and Louisiana and, to be honest, their appearance reflected the underground pirate cove atmosphere I mentioned. Both loved to experiment, to be sure, and whipped up several drinks per our specific tastes. The whole experience was indeed exciting and engaging.









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